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Wednesday, November 21, 2012
Lines of perfection!!
Third day up here and it’s still pumping.
Today we had some really perfect lineups rolling in all morning, not super big but very clean.
Sometimes it’s really difficult for me to deal with perfect surfing conditions, because I’m not able to surf anymore, but the beauty of a perfect lineup never fail to amaze me, it’s just such a meditative feeling to absorb and watch waves rolling in.
Today was such a day, I couldn’t get enough of these waves, luckily they kept on rolling in to the bay area all morning.
” Life is like a wave – sometimes it’s perfect, sometimes it’s shit, but no matter what you have to ride along with it”
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Thy National Park - a place for quiet reflection - and nice waves!!!