It’s been epic, it’s been wild, it’s been a treat!! – so far – and it’s still pumping up here in the "wild west".
Here's a couple of shots from tuesday evening with some of the locals – Oliver Hartkopp, Peter Steinfath and Peters father Mike Steinfath had a nice session.
All day long Oliver was texting me - asking me - how is it?, is it good?, is it big?, is it clean?....is it stillpumping? - I remember the feeling of missing out on a perfect day - you get restless and having problems focusing on what you ever are doing. Well that's when you know, you have been stung by the "surf bee" - only cure is to get out there and rip a few waves.
When Oliver and Peter finally got home from school the conditions were still good, not big and powerful as during the morning session, but sunshine and still nice conditions.
I was only supposed to stay here two days, shooting a couple of pic's of Victor and the rest of the surf scene up here, but I've had to changes a couple of things, because friday looks even better that what I've sen so far up here. It's just one of those seldom sessions you have to follow as long as possible. Love it when Mother Earth shows Her powers!!
Today we had some really perfect lineups rolling in all morning, not super big but very clean.
Sometimes it’s really difficult for me to deal with perfect surfing conditions, because I’m not able to surf anymore, but the beauty of a perfect lineup never fail to amaze me, it’s just such a meditative feeling to absorb and watch waves rolling in.
Today was such a day, I couldn’t get enough of these waves, luckily they kept on rolling in to the bay area all morning.
” Life is like a wave – sometimes it’s perfect, sometimes it’s shit, but no matter what you have to ride along with it”
(Click on pic's for a larger view )
Thy National Park - a place for quiet reflection - and nice waves!!!