By Jason Polakow
For more than 30 years, one of the world's best surf breaks (Cloud Break) has been controlled by a small island within the Fijian chain, until now! Only those that could afford to pay the exuberant prices, dictated by the island owners, had the privilege to surf at this amazing wave.
Protests from both national and international groups have since forced the expulsion of this sanction allowing everyone the chance to experience this iconic wave.
I had been tow surfing another huge swell in Tahiti when I heard of the swell heading towards Fiji.
(fyi: the first half of the VIDEO - link below- is about this great surf session in Teahupoo.)
E-mails started pouring in asking if I had seen the size of the storm heading past SE Australia. Earlier that month I had missed a huge swell that hit Fiji due to a JP / NP dealer meeting in France, so there was no way I was going to miss another epic swell.
These swells are very rare, so to get two large systems within one season was nothing short of a miracle.
With a grin from ear to ear I said my good byes and boarded my flight to Fiji.
I had rang long time friend Scotty and Mandy O'Conner who own and run a high end resort called Namotu Island and pleaded with them to let me stay with them.
The island is surrounded by 5 world-class waves and is only a 5-minute boat trip to the famous Cloud Break surf spot. You can choose from a variety of waves that surround the island depending on your ability as a surfer. Boats are at your disposal and shuttle you in and out all day long from the breaks.
Most days the surf ranges between 3 to 6 feet with bigger waves hitting the reefs on the right weather conditions.
It's a perfect location for surfers, windsurfers and kite surfers with great fishing and diving right outside the reefs.
If you're looking for a place where you can do it all, stay in luxury bungalows and eat some of the best food on the planet, this is definitely the place you want to go, hands down! You can contact Namotu Island on: + 679 670 6439 or email them at:namotu@connect.com.fj or go to their web site at: namotuislandfiji.com
Upon my arrival to Namotu Island I was treated to a smorgasbord of sashimi and a view of the islands main surf break; Namotu lefts. Most places I travel to, I'm normally guarding my wallet and trying to haul all my gear over my head, asking people for directions. This place is the polar opposite if I'd had ever seen it. Everything is done for you before you even have to ask. I could get used to this in a heartbeat.
I decided to have a quick lay in the pool bar and check the whether report on my computer through the islands wireless network. Sorry, but that's what I actually did. It's that good!
Two huge systems were forecasted to hit Fiji with surf advisory warnings going out to all islands in the area. 15 to 18 foot waves were scheduled to hit the following morning and continue for 4 days.
I had rang long time friend Scotty and Mandy O'Conner who own and run a high end resort called Namotu Island and pleaded with them to let me stay with them.
The island is surrounded by 5 world-class waves and is only a 5-minute boat trip to the famous Cloud Break surf spot. You can choose from a variety of waves that surround the island depending on your ability as a surfer. Boats are at your disposal and shuttle you in and out all day long from the breaks.
Most days the surf ranges between 3 to 6 feet with bigger waves hitting the reefs on the right weather conditions.
It's a perfect location for surfers, windsurfers and kite surfers with great fishing and diving right outside the reefs.
If you're looking for a place where you can do it all, stay in luxury bungalows and eat some of the best food on the planet, this is definitely the place you want to go, hands down! You can contact Namotu Island on: + 679 670 6439 or email them at:namotu@connect.com.fj or go to their web site at: namotuislandfiji.com
Upon my arrival to Namotu Island I was treated to a smorgasbord of sashimi and a view of the islands main surf break; Namotu lefts. Most places I travel to, I'm normally guarding my wallet and trying to haul all my gear over my head, asking people for directions. This place is the polar opposite if I'd had ever seen it. Everything is done for you before you even have to ask. I could get used to this in a heartbeat.
I decided to have a quick lay in the pool bar and check the whether report on my computer through the islands wireless network. Sorry, but that's what I actually did. It's that good!
Two huge systems were forecasted to hit Fiji with surf advisory warnings going out to all islands in the area. 15 to 18 foot waves were scheduled to hit the following morning and continue for 4 days.
"I knew I was in trouble so I tried to relax and just go with the flow. At some point underwater, I got hit in the head by my rig or board and got completely disorientated. I did not know which way was up or down. I came up facing the beach, span around and saw a 15 footer exploding onto the reef meters in front of me.
There was no time to take a breath and I went down again. I thought to myself while I was getting bashed around that I was in real trouble again. I had no breath left and started drinking water again like my incident at Jaws a year ago. I eventually surfaced completely fucked and battered".
Check out the rest of this fantastic story by Jason at the JP WEBSITE
-and click on this LINK to get right to this super article with lots of other amazing photos.
(PS. you are even offered to download some these super shots as wallpapers - for free!!)
And here is a video of Jason windsurfing from Cloud break
- PS. make sure to watch the end of the video!!
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